Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Sofia София (16th-17th July 2014)


Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, is described (by Lonely Planet) as a "pleasingly laid back capital". Located in the Western part of Bulgaria at the foot of Mt. Vitosha. I guess the only reason why it gained its "laid back" description is probably because there wasn't too much hustle and bustle about the city as a whole, unlike many others in the Western side of Europe.

It hasn't always been Bulgaria's capital though, but was made capital because the rulers in the late 1800s looked to conquer the lands which are today Serbia, Kosovo and Macedonia. Or at least that was what I learnt from my Bulgarian sisters during my "Bulgarian history lesson".

Perhaps the beauty of the capital is in that it incorporates 3 key parts of its history: the Christian orthodox influences (from before and during the first 2 Bulgarian empires) with its time during the Ottoman rule together with lingerings from the USSR Red Army.

Arrived in Sofia after half a day of travelling from Vienna, so there was no time to travel around just yet. Just enough time for dinner with my Bulgarian sister.

The rest of Sofia was then left to the whole of 17th and the morning of 18th. Enough to appreciate the little bits of the capital and getting some understanding of the culture and history of Bulgaria.

Take the featured photo in the album cover for example: The St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. This Bulgarian Orthodox cathedral is amongst the largest in the world and the iconic golden domes makes it a shining symbol of Sofia...


Arriving in Sofia just in time for dinner with Betina at the recently opened Sofia branch of Shtastliveca. She says it's one of the best in her hometown in Veliko Tarnovo.

Turns out it had only been opened for a week so even the staff weren't sure of the menu... Was delicious enough to warrant a visit to the Veliko Tarnovo branch ;)


Just outside the Court of Justice with the Bulgarian Lion that's a little cropped out, unfortunately


Continuing the trend of roaring with statued lions around Europe, this time in front of Sofia's Court of Justice (Съдебна палата Sadebna palata)

Located just 5 minutes from our "5-star" Sofia accommodation, the court house looks like an ordinary and plain building (except for its size). It houses all the courts in Sofia, so I'm assuming that there's no subordinate courts anywhere else in the city.


The Saint Nedelya Church or Holy Sunday Church (църква „Света Неделя“ Sveta Nedelya) is yet another Orthodox church that would feature on the "Landmarks of Sofia" lists.

This medieval church has gone through its fair share of wear and tear over the years but has been restored once every once in a while.


The Sofia Public Mineral Baths (Централна минерална баня Tsentralna mineralna banya) used to be, as its name suggests, Sofia's public baths, up till 1986 at least. It was subsequently shut down because of its poor building condition. 

According to the people around, it is meant to be reopened sometime in 2014 where it will house the museum of Sofia. It still looked very much closed back when I was there though.The Sofia Public Mineral Baths (Централна минерална баня Tsentralna mineralna banya) used to be, as its name suggests, Sofia's public baths, up till 1986 at least. It was subsequently shut down because of its poor building condition. 

According to the people around, it is meant to be reopened sometime in 2014 where it will house the museum of Sofia. It still looked very much closed back when I was there though.


Mentioned earlier how Sofia integrated 3 key parts of its history. Here's an example, the Banya Bashi Mosque is built in close proximity to the Sofia Synagogue and the Cathedral of St Joseph. It's not that hard to guess it that it was built during the Ottoman's rule.



The Largo (Ларго), is an ensemble of 3 buildings with TZUM departmental store on the left and the President's office to its left and the former Party House in the centre. (As seen from Church of St. George, Sofia)

The letters inscribed on the front, Народно събрание Narodno sabranie, means National Assembly. This is not the main Parliament Building but just the office house.

Didn't realize it when I took it then, but this photo is another that can be considered iconic Sofia. The Largo is after all, amongst one of Sofia's most distinct landmarks.


Bad weather soon came upon us so it took a while before we were out and about again.

The Vasil Levski National Stadium (Национален стадион „Васил Левски“), home of the Bulgarian National Football Team. Ludogorets, who are Bulgaria's representative in this 2014/2015 season's Champions League play their home games here because their own stadium do not meet UEFA's standards.


Taken from just outside Vasil Levski National Stadium. You'll see in the background, the Monument to the Soviet Army, Sofia. In the foreground, was what I thought the statue of Vasil Levski.

And how wrong could I be... Turns out, this bronze statue by Dimitar Daskalov was not meant to be someone but a mere representation. According to the people I asked, it was supposed to be full bronze but someone added colour to it after... Turned out pretty good too ;)


The Eagles' Bridge (Орлов мост, Orlov most) over the Perlovska River sounds like a pretty huge bridge doesn't it? In reality, it's just a small and short bridge that leads to the city centre.

It's named after the 4 statued eagles on the four corners of the bridge. These 4 protectors seem to vaguely remind me of the Dragon's Bridge in Ljubljana...



"St. Kliment Ohridski" University of Sofia, the oldest and highest ranked university in Bulgaria. It sits along a rather busy Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard that's en route to the Parliament form the Eagles' Bridge.


Inscription on the front of The Monument to the Tsar Liberator reads "Царю Освободителю признателна България" which translates to "Tsar Osvoboditel Grateful Bulgaria". The wreath seen here is made from bronze and was donated by Romania, in memory of Romanians who lost their lives during the Russo-Turkish War 1877-1878.

Built in honour of Russian Emperor Alexander II who liberated Bulgaria of Ottoman rule in 1878. The statue (not seen here) has him seated on a horse.


The National Assembly of Bulgaria (Народно събрание, Narodno sabranie) "main building" stands right in front of the Monument to the Tsar Liberator.

You'll realize that there's a black "barricade" of some sort, with some stickers pasted on it. Well, apparently, it's because people were protesting a little too much and they had to put them up to prevent any damage. Needs more stickers though :P

Notice a gold glow from behind the parliament on the left?


That glow came from the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Already featured in the album cover, here's the other view of the majestic Orthodox Cathedral.

Built to honour the Russian soldiers who fought for Bulgaria's liberation during the 1877-1878 Russo-Turkish war. It is named after the Russian Prince, Alexander Nevsky, who was a great warrior during the Middle Ages.


Monument to the Unknown Soldier (Паметник на Незнайния воин, Pametnik na Neznayniya voin) just outside the Saint Sofia Church that's near the Cathedral.

The monument has an eternal flame, a Bulgarian lion sculpture and some turf from Stara Zagora and Shipka Pass (the 2 major battles of the Russo-Turkish War).

This is what the inscription says:

"БЪЛГАРИЙО, ЗА ТЕБЕ ТЕ УМРЯХА,
ЕДНА БЕ ТИ ДОСТОЙНА ЗАРАД ТЯХ
И ТЕ ЗА ТЕБ ДОСТОЙНИ, МАЙКО, БЯХА!"

"O BULGARIA, FOR YOU THEY DIED,
ONLY ONE WERE YOU WORTHY OF THEM
AND THEY OF YOU WORTHY, O MOTHER, WERE!"


With my mum and my sis in front of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral under the glowing sunlight. Check out the huge camera my mum has slung around her neck...


Honestly don't know the significance of this sculpture I found standing along in a little garden en route to the Russian Church. But similar sculptures were everywhere around in this garden which was used as a little marketplace now.


Church of St Nicholas the Miracle-Maker or simply the Russian Church was yet another one that was undergoing renovations this summer. What a bummer...

That was it for Sofia, the first stop of our week-long trip in Bulgaria. Did feel kinda rushed to try to cover it all in a day and I figure I've only done just a small part of the capital.

So what was it in Bulgaria that’s worth a week to explore? After Sofia, the next on the list was the Rila Monastery, south of Sofia, which they said was a must-see!

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